Negative Bus-Bar. Thread starter fishnfire Start date Jan 28, Joined Jan 14, Messages 6. Would like to ground everything back to the battery via a common terminal. What would be the best way to do this? Specifically: bus-bar type, amps, gauge of wire. The run will be 14' 28' round trip. Joined Feb 5, Messages 3, Re: Negative Bus-Bar i made my own bus-bar. Texasmark Supreme Mariner.
Joined Dec 20, Messages 13, You have chosen your batt. By using Crab Bait's suggestion, with the wood backing plate, you isolated the ground buss from the boats hull so that there are no "eddy" currents running thru the hull with can cause corrosion.
Then with the engine's housing tied grounded to the engine's wiring harness and subsequently to the batt neg, you have your perfect setup. Joined Jul 20, Messages However a "star" ground is good practice to follow, and this is essentially what you have done.
The only thing I would do different is not relying on the wood screws to maintain a tight bond to the buss bar. This will eventually loosen up and cause high resistance connections due to wood swelling and shrinking as well as moisture.
Better is to use stainless or nickel plate machine screws with a toothed lock washer and a nut to fasten the connections to the buss bar. Then use micarta or a couple of nylon blocks to isolate the buss bar from whatever you are fastening to.Please note access to these showrooms will be restricted during this period.
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National Electrical Code 2014
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You can put a negative buss bar any place that is convenient. There is no requirement to have it at the panel. However, if you use duplex wire, it will end at the panel and makes it easy to connect. Although Gonzo is correct. Faults normally occur at electrical connections. Keeping the number of buss bars to a limit may be advisable. I wouldn't run the return from one buss bar to the next etc. If there was a fault it makes it more difficult to find. PoidaNov 28, What you describe is common practice.
For example on a small runabout or center console there will be a negative busbar aft for the sternlight, bilge pump, trim tabs, etc. If you don't mind having wires going off in different directions then go ahead.
I like my power to come down the same cable preferably through a dual pole breaker, which in turn is connect to a positive and negative bus. A few well placed distribution boxes makes this tidy.
It only takes a minute to sign up. So to continue my line of electrical questioning and perhaps narrow down my flickering light problemI took a look through the two panels in this house. There is a amp main service in the basement, which then feeds up to a amp sub-panel for the main floor.
This amp sub feeds a kitchen fridge, microwave, dishwasher, gas rangea bathroom, 3 bedrooms, and a living room. My first concern is that the main service panel has the bare ground and neutral wires mixed on the two bus bars. Reading around, some say this is OK, other's say it is bad. Any thoughts? The sub-panel is wired with grounds and neutrals on separate bars. A System Grounding Connections. A premises wiring system supplied by a grounded ac service shall have a grounding electrode conductor connected to the grounded service conductor, at each service, in accordance with The grounding electrode conductor connection shall be made at any accessible point from the load end of the overhead service conductors, service drop, underground service conductors, or service lateral to and including the terminal or bus to which the grounded service conductor is connected at the service disconnecting means.
This means that the grounded neutral from the service must be connected to ground, and that the connection can be made by bonding the neutral bus bar to the grounding electrode. A grounded conductor shall not be connected to normally non—current carrying metal parts of equipment, to equipment grounding conductor sor be reconnected to ground on the load side of the service disconnecting means except as otherwise permitted in this article. This means that the grounded neutral conductors should only be grounded at the main service disconnnect.
If the main service panel happens to be the same place that the grounded neutral conductor is bonded to the grounding electrode, then there is no problem mixing grounds and neutrals on the same bus bar as long as there is an appropriate number of conductors terminated under each lug. If the two bus bars are not connected; as would be the case anywhere other than the main disconnect exceptions existthen you cannot mix them. Notice how the grounded, and grounding bus bars are connected in the main service panel.
This means that; electrically speaking, they can be considered a single bus bar. Which means that both grounded neutraland equipment grounding conductors can be terminated on either bus bar. In the subpanel, the bus bars are kept separate. So grounded neutraland equipment grounding conductors cannot be mixed. The wiring issue is not a matter of pride, neatness or whatever You should see the ground lead and neutral tied to the same bus the neutral bus bar.
Based on your description, it sounds like your panels are wired correctly. It just doesn't "look right" based on how the other panel is made up. I can completely understand how this can seem incorrect from a common sense perspective. However, any sub-panel after the primary service from there MUST have an isolated neutral. Why is this? When you tie neutral to earth ground in a subpanel, you create a potential parallel path for current to return via earth ground.
In the event of a fault, your ground conductor has assumed the role of the return path for current and now everything that you've grounded sub-panel, appliances, metal fixtures, etc to that sub-panel is now hot. All it takes is a preexisting fault, one rainstorm, or wet feet, whateverForums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Resources Latest reviews Search resources.
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I want to make sure I hook this up currectly. My first question is do I have to run a line from the negative post on the battery to the bus bar, or can I just install the bus bar and run the negative wires from the stereo and lights, etc to that bar?
On the ones I've looked at, I don't see an input terminal or anything like that where I would bring a line from the battery in so I didn't know if I could just screw the bar in under the console and that was it? My second question then would be, do I just run a line from the positive post on the battery to the pre-wired switch panel's positive lead and then run the switch panel's negative lead to the bus bar?
And then any devices I can run the positive into the switch panel and the negative to the bus? Joined Mar 8, Messages 30, So I do need a separate fuse panel in addition to the switch panel? The switch panel I'm looking at has built in breakers.
I was thinking I could just run power into that from the battery and then hookup a separate negative bus bar to run the negative from the Switch Panel into that and then the negatives for the stereo and lights into the negative bus bar as well? I want the stereo ran into the switch panel so that way I can kill ALL power to the stereo so it doesn't drain my battery. Silvertip Supreme Mariner. Joined Sep 22, Messages 28, You have one or the other. If you have a switch panel with built-in breakers you don't need a fuse panel.
If the switch panel doesn't have fuses or breakers you need a separate fuse panel. Switch panels with breakers, although convenient, generally have a mix of breaker ratings that may not be the best solution.
If you use a separate fuse panel, you use fuses appropriate for the circuit they protect. If there is no negative bus, you need one. If there isn't you don't.
Thanks Silvertip. One last question.In electric power distributiona busbar also bus bar is a metallic strip or bar, typically housed inside switchgearpanel boardsand busway enclosures for local high current power distribution.
They are also used to connect high voltage equipment at electrical switchyards, and low voltage equipment in battery banks. They are generally uninsulated, and have sufficient stiffness to be supported in air by insulated pillars.
These features allow sufficient cooling of the conductors, and the ability to tap in at various points without creating a new joint.
The term busbar is derived from the Latin word omnibuswhich translates into English as "for all", indicating that a busbar carries all of the currents [ citation needed ] in a particular system.
The material composition and cross-sectional size of the busbar determine the maximum amount of current that can be safely carried. Busbars can have a cross-sectional area of as little as 10 square millimetres 0. An aluminium smelter will have very large busbars used to carry tens of thousands of amperes to the electrochemical cells that produce aluminium from molten salts. Busbars are produced in a variety of shapes, such as flat strips, solid bars, or rods, and are typically composed of copperbrassor aluminium as solid or hollow tubes.
The skin effect makes 50—60 Hz AC busbars more than about 8 millimetres 0. A hollow section also has higher stiffness than a solid rod of equivalent current-carrying capacity, which allows a greater span between busbar supports in outdoor electrical switchyards. A busbar must be sufficiently rigid to support its own weight, and forces imposed by mechanical vibration and possibly earthquakesas well as accumulated precipitation in outdoor exposures.
In addition, thermal expansion from temperature changes induced by ohmic heating and ambient temperature variations, as well as magnetic forces induced by large currents, must be considered. In order to address these concerns, flexible bus bars, typically a sandwich of thin conductor layers, were developed. These require a structural frame or cabinet for their installation. Distribution boards split the electrical supply into separate circuits at one location.
Busways, or bus ducts, are long busbars with a protective cover. Rather than branching from the main supply at one location, they allow new circuits to branch off anywhere along the route of the busway. A busbar may either be supported on insulators, or else insulation may completely surround it. Busbars are protected from accidental contact either by a metal earthed enclosure or by elevation out of normal reach.
Earthing safety grounding busbars are typically bare and bolted directly onto any metal chassis of their enclosure. Busbars may be enclosed in a metal housing, in the form of bus duct or busway, segregated-phase bus, or isolated-phase bus. Busbars may be connected to each other and to electrical apparatus by bolted, clamped, or welded connections.
Often, joints between high-current bus sections have precisely-machined matching surfaces that are silver-plated to reduce the contact resistance.We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral.
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Negative Bus Bar – 10 Circuit